![]() Even if you sometimes run into unusual situations, the 'usual' way of scribing should be the easy way. Or leave one end loose and struggle for a couple of minutes. ![]() In an unusual narrow situation like that a sacrificial scribe would probably need to be cut first, then transferred to the permanent scribe. To contributor T: so in that condition, if the cabinet is captured by walls on both sides, one side is still left loose, yes? It’s hard to get much easier than that! Wall cabinet, attach a cleat to the wall, slide the cabinet over, etc. ![]() Level the base, put the cabinet on the base, slide to the wall, mark, lay on back and cut scribe. The shops I know of that use recessed scribes ship the cabinet with scribe attached. Again just put a pencil mark on each end where you want the taper to start and end and run it. Also works great as a taper jig as you don’t need to figure your angles. Saves a lot of time when you have a board that has a big bend in it. I have a similar set up in my shop that I use to straightline short (less than 8') pieces of stock before taking them to the jointer. Just put a mark on both ends and line that up with the edge of the sled. Two or three wingnuts to tighten it down and you should be able to run them pretty quickly. Then have another strip of wood that goes over that but overlaps onto your scribe with some self stick sandpaper to keep the scribe from slipping. What I would do is make a plywood sled, attach a stop the length of it that is about 1/16 thinner than the stock you are scribing. The belt sander was way too aggressive for such a fine scribe and was no faster than the plane.Īs far as the blanks are concerned you could even get away with one or two inch wide pieces. We would jigsaw within a 1/16" of the scribe line and then walk it in with the block plane. Also, the block plane made a big difference. Worked like a charm, albeit a very time consuming charm. At that point we scribed the top and one side (bottoms ran flush with the wall and the baseboard ran over them) once they were set we marked the top and bottom rails with plumb marks held the loose stile on those marks and scribed it in. We left one stile off but we put pocket holes in the rails where we could get a screw in there. It kind of negates some of the structural advantages of a face frame, and the joints between face frame members won't be as tight as if it was pre-fabricated that way.Īctually, I had a job that was just as you are describing. Although in an upcoming project, we have cabinets that get 1/2" recessed scribes on three sides, which would mean building a cabinet with 1/4th of a face frame, with 3/4ths of it in loose scribe pieces. We've done that before and it's worked out pretty well. I'm thinking maybe 3" wide scribe blanks? It might not be as practical with solid wood scribes as it would be with plywood scribes, from a material usage standpoint. Maybe a few different lengths, each with a few quick clamps on there. Also a real sharp block plane is a big help!Ĭool idea about cutting the scribe and then ripping! I hadn't thought of that, maybe that's workable with a jig or two. ![]() Leave one stile loose so that you can do a final fit into the opening. If you have a cabinet with a face frame and want to achieve a recessed scribe make your face frame to the width necessary to accommodate the scribe and then rabbet it to create the recess. Scribe the piece and then clamp it between two pieces of wood to rip in the table saw for the side that will butt into the cabinet. Concerning a scribe for the frameless I would make a wider piece for the scribe. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Another is, it's tricky working with such tiny scribes sometimes we're even dealing with 1/4" or 1/2" reveals, making the scribes really tiny and tricky to work with. One problem with this method is that it's tricky to hold the scribe in place accurately to mark it. I'm looking for better methods, or ways to improve our results with this type of scribe detail. After the cabinet is installed, the scribe is held in place, marked, cut, and then pushed back in to place against the cleat and attached with glue and maybe a micro pin or two. The scribes are usually 1/4", supplied loose. Usually the way we handle it is we build the cabinet with a cleat on the side, to be used as a backing for the scribe. Over the years we've done a fair amount of high-end contemporary work where the scribe is recessed relative to the face of the cabinet (or relative to the doors on a European-style cabinet).
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